Introduction

It’s a great time to be a coffee lover. More than ever cafés with an eye on the quality of every cup are creating converts from the usual chain stores, which as far as I’m concerned is great. In Montreal, where I work, every day new faces come in open-minded and enthusiastic to experience our offerings. Whether they’re ardent enthusiasts or brand new to the concept of specialty coffee, an overwhelming majority are interested in making their own coffee at home. And why not? As a competing barista, I know first-hand of the addictive challenge and reward of making espresso, and understand the appeal to home users. As one of the few practicing professionals in Montreal, I am often asked my opinion of various home-setups for the experts and uninitiated alike.

Grinders

Consumers are getting savvy to the idea that a great espresso machine is only as good as its accompanying grinder. Too often the majority of a home barista’s budget is expended on an espresso machine, leaving the grinder as an afterthought (or worse, leaving it out altogether). Why do you need a grinder if your local café offers to grind your coffee when you buy it? When coffee is pre-ground, it becomes stale much more quickly because it’s exposed to air. Oxygen is not kind to coffee, and the longer it’s exposed the more difficult it is to evenly extract the flavors and essential oils that make quality fresh roasted coffee so delicious.

Good coffee begins with a capable grinder. There are dozens of options for the prospective espresso connoisseur that range in price and convenience. The key questions to ask yourself when considering a purchase is how much effort do you want to put into each coffee, and how much are you willing to spend? The cheapest grinders are blade-based and are not suitable because the blades are incapable of producing consistent grinds with even surface areas. This means that in any one cup, you’ll have coffee that’s both over and under-extracted (depending on the size of the ground), resulting in unbalanced and sometimes unappealing coffee. I recommend spending the extra cash for something more versatile and consistent.

Burr grinders are capable of producing grinds with consistently sized surface areas, putting you in a better position to get the best out of your coffee beans. There are two types of burr grinders, those with conical burr-sets and those with flat. Conical burrs are set in a way that allows more beans to be ground simultaneously, allowing them to run at a lower RPM. A lower RPM means less noise and less friction to heat up the coffee before it’s ready to be brewed. Flat burr sets have to rotate more quickly to compensate for their lessened surface area, and thus can be a little noisier. In a commercial environment where several coffees are being produced very quickly, the excess heat produced may factor into the argument, but for most home users this is largely inconsequential.

So what matters, aside from producing a consistent grind? Practical questions of things such as distribution and grind adjustment are important, as are more aesthetic qualities like appearance and size. Cost, of course, is also relevant in terms of working within a budget.

The term distribution is most often used in discussions of espresso, and refers to how evenly grinds are delivered from the grinder into the portafilter. Poor distribution leads to unevenly extracted shots and almost always thwarts even the best equipment’s abilities to produce good espresso. This concern invariably leads to a debate over the merits of grinders with or without dosing chambers, the vessel attached to the grinder that holds the grounds after they pass through the chute. Fans of doserless grinders point to the lack of trapped coffee that is wasted in the chamber and the elimination of an unnecessary step (dosing) to justify their choice. Proponents of dosing chambers generally enjoy less clumping of their grinds and also don’t have to hold their portafilter to the grinder while it grinds. Ultimately, the choice between the two comes down to personal preference, as both almost always require a manual redistribution of grinds. For more information about redistribution methods, search the internet for “Weiss Distribution,” “Stockfleth’s Move,” “NSEW (North South East West) Distribution,” or visit one of the several websites dedicated to the passion of home baristas.

Grind adjustment enters discussions of grinders just as frequently, more commonly referred to as “stepped versus stepless.” Stepped grinders have incremented levels of fineness or coarseness that users are restricted to, whereas stepless grinders can be adjusted to fractions of a millimeter. The latter provide a measure of comfort in that they offer more control to the barista. If you can adjust a grind in infinitely small fractions, logic suggests you’re that much more able to dial in your coffee’s particular “sweet spot.” Stepped grinders are limited to adjustments predetermined by their manufacturer, but on the other hand this makes it easier to remember how to dial in certain blends more quickly. It’s also worth mentioning that slight changes in dose can accommodate coffees that seem to require half step adjustments. For example, if espresso is pouring a little too slowly because the grind is too fine on setting x but is pouring too quickly on the next coarsest setting, a solution could be found by adding a bit more coffee to the dose and keeping the grinder on setting x.

How do these factors translate to the marketplace? Ultimately, it narrows the gap between acceptable and high-end. The bare minimum of what’s generally recommended is often the Baratza Maestro, which is available for $100. Compare this to a high-end grinder designed for home use, such as the Mazzer Mini, which can usually be purchased for around $600. That’s not a large range partly because I’ve eliminated blade grinders from the discussion and am not counting used commercial grinders, which some keen home baristas commandeer for domestic use. Unsurprisingly, the most popular starting grinder for serious home baristas is the $400 Rancilio Rocky, the median price point. Available both with dosing chamber and without, the Rocky is an excellent choice for those just starting out. It’s capable enough to preclude frustration due to uneven grinds and retains its value due to the demand driven by its popularity. For those enraptured by making coffee and wishing to upgrade, selling the Rocky helps make the next purchase a little easier.

When asked for recommendations for specific grinders, I usually outline most of the above to the prospective buyer. Making great coffee comes down to reducing the number of variables for every step. Mindful of this, I often suggest Anfim grinders for their dosing mechanisms. Designed to dose coffee straight down out of the dosing chamber (instead of to the left or right, as is common), the distribution of grinds is often so even that no redistribution is necessary; just an even tamp before locking the portafilter into the grouphead. Often priced lower than its Mazzer and Macap competitors, Anfims can be the most forgiving of those with distribution weaknesses.

The bottom line (and a common theme for all things coffee) is to find something functional that you’re comfortable using. I’ve outlined the primary functions that a grinder needs to be capable of performing, but just as important is how you feel using any given grinder. More important than researching to find the “best” grinder is researching to find a grinder that’s best for you.

Espresso Machines

Espresso is generally brewed under nine bars of pressure at a temperature of approximately 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Most home machines are capable of meeting these requirements most of the time, with the more adept (and pricier) models achieving this with consistency. Unlike grinders, which either can or cannot adequately perform their requisite duties, espresso machines operate more in a grey area. Price point in relation to ease of use and quality of espresso can make for a challenging time finding the right machine for your home.

Entry-Level Machines (Single Boiler)

The range in price from cheap to expensive is much larger for espresso machines than for grinders. The recommended price entry-level for the home barista is about $500 - $700. Three machines, the Solis SL70, Gaggia New Baby, and Rancilio Silvia represent a cross-section of the typical offerings in this bracket and all represent excellent choices for coffee lovers, if not coffee fanatics. All three are single-boiler machines that require a certain finesse to switch from brewing to steaming parameters, but with practice this can be achieved with relative ease. Single-boiler espresso machines utilize a thermostat to regulate the temperature for brewing espresso and steaming milk. The same water is used for both functions, with the temperature increasing or decreasing depending on what mode is engaged. The Silvia is the world’s most popular espresso machine over $300 and has inspired a litany of tips, suggestions, and how-to articles online for owners looking for an edge. The amenities offered on these machines include three-way solenoid valves (for easy and safe pressure relief after brewing), bigger boilers, better milk steaming capacity, and improved aesthetics along with commercial sized 58mm portafilters.

These machines, with enough practice and understanding, offer the opportunity to get the best out of fresh roasted coffee. The key to that idea is “understanding,” and there’s a plethora of modifications available to make these machines perform like considerably more expensive models once you’re familiar with yours. One of the first things many home baristi do is to add a PID controller on their espresso machine. PID stands for Proportional Integral Derivative, and is in a high-tech but easy means to control temperature. Temperature is one of the most important variables to control when making espresso, as variation of even tenths of degrees can alter the balance of the cup. The advantages to this modification on single-boiler thermostat machines is obviously more control over temperature variables, but also usually better temperature stability. The balance between sour under-temperature espresso and bitter over-heated shots is delicate, making temperature stability a priority for serious amateurs. Many machine retailers now offer PID kits (starting at $150) and the dozens of online installation resources are helpful and easy to follow.

One of the limitations of single-boiler espresso machines is an inability to steam milk while simultaneously pulling espresso. You’re generally forced to choose between frothing before or after preparing your shots, and inevitably the choice comes down to the lesser of two evils for your particular tastes. The Solis SL70 is engineered to recover swiftly to allow for minimum of lag time between steaming milk and pulling espresso, but it doesn’t compare to higher end heat-exchange machines. With enough practice, however, you can perfect a routine that delivers both milk and espresso in adequate time to build a superb drink. This is the sacrifice you make at this price point in exchange for affordability. For those who enjoy straight shots, it’s almost a non-issue. The Silvia, Solis, and Gaggia New Baby are solid entry points for keen beginners. Combined with a mid-level grinder (such as the Rocky) a semi-professional setup can cost less than $1000.

Mid-Level Machines (Single Boiler, Heat Exchange)

When you’re ready for an upgrade, with a modicum of research there’s little room to go wrong. The $1000 to $2500 bracket offers numerous machines that perform with commercial grade brewing technology and steaming capacity. This is generally the range to find heat-exchange machines, which are still single-boiler machines, but have tubing (the heat-exchanger) that runs through different parts of the boiler. As water passes through the tubing, it is swiftly brought to capable brew temperatures by the water and steam in the boiler before being delivered to the grouphead. Flushing out superheated water in the grouphead immediately before brewing is important so as not to scorch your espresso, and with practice you can time your flush to result in a perfect brew temperature.

There are additional costs to consider when you’re ready to make this level of investment into your home coffee setup. Single boiler (non-heat exchange) machines are designed for manual refills of water and while they can be plumbed in, generally are not. As price and overall quality of machine increases, it’s worth taking into consideration the advantages of directly plumbing them in. The convenience comes with the price; cost of labour and water filtration (average tap water causes scaling in machines, a sure-fire way to shorten their average lifespan). But once done, a plumbed-in machine is convenient, especially for entertaining or other situations requiring heavy use.

Most of these machines use E61 grouphead technology, engineered by Faema in the 1960’s. The progressive pre-infusion of E61 saturates the grinds at gradually increasing pressure until it reaches 9 bars, when extraction begins. Some models (such as the Quickmill Anita) also appear to have a mid-lever position that allows for a manual pre-wet of the grinds, before the pre-infusion begins. These features reduce channelling creating more balanced and evenly extracted espresso. The Isomac Tea, Quickmill Anita, Pasquini Livia all have E61 groupheads and are all found in this price bracket. The instantly noticeable upgrade (along with the preinfusion) is the no-wait transition from brewing to steaming, allowing for milk-based drinks to be created before the espresso wilts or the microfoam separates. Because steam is already present in the boiler of heat-exchangers, pressure and steaming capacity is rarely in question and quality microfoam is just practice away. Aesthetically, most E61 machines look similar to one another with stainless steel bodies framing the classic grouphead. The differences are stylistic and include steam wand placement and its range of motion, water reservoir and boiler capacity, drip tray capacity, etc. These should not be ignored, and on the contrary provide a certain level of comfort when using that could make the difference in deciding between machines.

True Commercial Machines (Dual Boilers)

Home espresso machines with dual boilers represent true commercial machines redesigned for home use. These include La Spaziale Vivaldi II (at $2200), La Marzocco GS3 (at $7000), Synesso Cyncra (at $9000). All require plumbing-in and it’s worth making sure you have proper electrical installations to run the machines (the Synesso, for instance, runs on 220V power). The upside? Virtually unlimited steam capacity and pressure, the closest thing to unmodified temperature stability in the industry, and bragging rights to all your friends. These machines eliminate more variables in the process than any other home models, and are therefore the most conducive to making quality coffee. All allow programmable brewing temperature and have sensors that monitor fluctuations to fractions of a degree. Having independent boilers for brewing and steaming means cooling flushes and temperature surfing are redundant, affording even more user control and minimizing the risk of barista error. Having the choice to steam milk before, during, or after gives you freedom in your routine and the power offered means you can practically make as many coffees as you like, one after another after another. Paired with a Mazzer, Anfim, or Macap grinder you would be more than capable of outperforming the majority (if not all) of your local cafes.

Summary

It’s always appealing to upgrade, the mantra of “bigger is better” purveys everything we do, including making coffee. Although I detailed several machines in ascending order of price and features, that shouldn’t imply that the priciest represents the consensus best. Some of the best shots of espresso I ever tasted came from a mid-range heat exchanger, one of the median models in terms of price. For my style and habits, this machine suited me perfectly and I would be willing to use it to go head to head with another barista on any other machine to compare quality of cups. For you, the same results might be found with a PID’d Silvia, or maybe you only truly reach your potential with the Quickmill Anita. The recommendation is to examine as many machines as possible before making your choice, because compared to grinders there are far more features in an espresso machine and the consequences have far more range. While I truly believe that satisfactory results can be achieved with any machine (in combination with fresh roasted coffee and a good grinder), that doesn’t mean you should settle on the first that catches your eye.

Total Budget	Grinder		Espresso Machine
Under $1,000	Baratza Maestro	$100	Solis SL 70	$500
	Anfim Best	$350	Gaggia New Baby	$500
	Rancilio Rocky	$400	Rancilio Sylvia	$700
$1,000 - $2,500	Rancilio Rocky	$400	Quickmill Anita	$1,450
	Mazzer Mini	$600	Isomac TEA II	$1,700
			Pasquini Livia 90	$1,800
Above $2,500	Mazzer Mini	$600	Vivaldi II	$2,200
			La Marzocco GS3	$7,000
			Synesso Cyncra	$9,000

Notes: All prices represent approximate US dollar retail prices prevailing in July 2008, are subject to change and do not include shipping and sales tax.

Accessories

Tampers

There are a few must-haves to invest in with any espresso set up. First and foremost, a tamper that fits your portafilter is essential. If it’s even a few millimeters too small, the outermost edges of your puck will be more susceptible to channelling. The style of tamper can vary greatly, including size, ergonomics, materials and finish, and curvatures of the piston. The handle should fit comfortably in your hand and allow you to easily perform a level tamp. Anything that you’re struggling to hold or maneuver is not sized properly for your hand.

Frothing Pitchers

Milk steaming pitchers are another purchase to consider, but unlike tampers are wholly based on your preference. Bell pitchers as opposed to tapered, pointier spouts, and capacity all figure into a decision. Some pitchers lend themselves to produce microfoam more easily for certain people, and it’s worth trying a few if you can before settling on one particular variety.

Cups

Cups are also a required accessory, with aesthetic, size, thickness, and shape all figuring into the conversation. First and foremost, the cups are a large part of the presentation of your coffee. You want a coffee you’ve taken this much pride in brewing and building to look as great as it tastes. The size of the cup dictates what kind of beverage you’re making. Six ounces and fewer lend themselves well to cappuccinos, while anything bigger is consistent with more traditional lattes. Thicker cups retain heat better and have a certain feel that thinner varieties tend to lack, and also tend to be a little more resistant to breaking. Lastly, the shape of a cup is important beyond the aesthetic in terms of latte art and preservation of consistency. Tulip shaped espresso and cappuccino cups retain crema and foam longer than wider-mouthed demitasses, but are more difficult to pour art into (at least until you’re used to them). Demitasses lend themselves to picturesque rosettas and other creative designs, and can help you add the finishing touch to a well-crafted drink.